Six knots and a cleat

~9 minRopework

Day Skipper ropework is a short list used constantly. The bowline puts a fixed loop in the end of a line — mooring lines onto posts, sheets onto a headsail — strong, and it unties even after load. The clove hitch hangs fenders from a rail: quick, adjustable, not for anything that matters if it slips. The round turn and two half hitches makes fast to a ring or bar and can be released under load — the round turn takes the strain while you work. The figure-of-eight is a stopper, fat enough that a sheet cannot escape through its block.

Joining two ropes: a reef knot only for binding something (it capsizes as a bend); unequal thicknesses want a sheet bend, or a double sheet bend if it matters. Rope itself divides by stretch: polyester for sheets and halyards (low stretch is the point), nylon for anchor warps and mooring lines (stretch absorbs snatch loads).

Cleating: a full turn around the base of the cleat first, then figure-of-eight turns across the horns, finished with — opinions vary by boat — a final flat turn or a locking hitch. The full base turn is the part that takes the load; lines led straight to crossing turns jam.

One more knot completes the set: the ROLLING HITCH, the knot that grips ALONG a loaded rope or bar instead of around a post. Two turns on the load side jam against the pull, one turn the other side locks it. Its party trick is rescue work — clap it onto a winch-jammed sheet with a spare line, take the strain on the spare, and the jam goes slack enough to clear.

Step through each knot tie-by-tie, then test yourself naming the right knot for the job.

Winches, clutches and the riding turn

Loaded ropes are handled by machinery, and the machinery has manners. A WINCH takes two or three clockwise turns (always clockwise) before any load comes on, more turns as the load grows; a SELF-TAILING winch adds a gripping jaw on top so one person can wind and tail together. Feed the rope to the drum at a slight upward angle from below — a flat or downward lead is how you make a RIDING TURN, one turn buried under another, locked solid by the load. Prevention is the lead and not stacking turns early; the cure is never fingers — take the load off with another line and a rolling hitch, then unpick at leisure.

CLUTCHES (jammers) hold a loaded line so the winch can be borrowed by its neighbours — but opening one under full load fires the rope through your hand: take the load back onto the winch first, then open. Winch handles live in pockets, not on drums (a loaded rope will throw one overboard or at a head). And rope between jobs is COILED with the lay and stowed so it runs: the tangle you didn’t bother with is always the line you need in a hurry.

Last, the materials shelf beyond polyester and nylon: POLYPROPYLENE floats — which is exactly what you want in a rescue throwing line and nothing else; and the modern high-modulus fibres (Dyneema-type HMPE and friends) are stronger than steel for their weight with near-zero stretch — halyard and racing money, lovely, and nothing a Day Skipper must own.

Check yourself

The knot for putting a fixed loop in the end of a line — like a mooring line onto a post — is the…

The secure, easy-to-release way to make a line fast to a ring or bar is the…

A figure-of-eight knot at the end of a sheet is there to…

Cleating a mooring line properly means…

Most modern running rigging (sheets, halyards) is made of…

A riding turn on a winch is…

The rolling hitch earns its place because it…

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